Day 17 – Douglas Daly to Litchfield National Park

Leaving Douglas Daily this morning, after passing by many sandalwood tree plantations, we stopped firstly at Adelaide River, back out on the Stuart Highway.  This is a small but important town on the main highway. During WW2 Adelaide River was the headquarters of a large base of airforce and army personnel. There were 5000 people based here at one stage, and they had all sorts of buildings around the army camps such as a bakery, butchery, outdoor theatre, vege gardens and fruit orchards – all run by and for the servicemen and women that were based here. There was also a large tent hospital and electricity was only available to the tent operating theatre which was often blown down in the storms. I admit to having a special interest in all of this, because one of the serviceman stationed here was my grandfather (W Gordon Mills) who was here in 1942/3 for about 16 months serving in the RAAF radar unit.

We visited the impeccably kept Adelaide River War Cemetery which was created for the burial of servicemen and women who died in this part of Australia. After the war the Army Graves Service moved graves from civil cemeteries, isolated sites and temporary military cemeteries from all over the top end to the AR War Cemetery. It is now maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission and is beautifully kept, with stunning gardens and large flowering trees amongst the pedantically maintained graves. The gardeners were actually sweeping head headstone and grave, and lovingly tending the gardens – a real credit to them. It is obviously a place of well earned respect.

 

Apart from the military section, there is a special area reserved for civilians that were killed during the bombing of Darwin on 19^th Feb 1942. A bomb directly hit the Post Office, instantly killing all the employees (12 people), so there is a moving memorial to them.

We also visited the quaint old Railway Station which is decked out as the Adelaide River Heritage Centre, which also had lots of great old photos, and displays of various railway artefacts, and even the old radio receivers and transmitters that my grandfather would have operated when he was stationed here.

 

Next we stopped at the tiny town of Batchelor to buy a few supplies, and then headed the 10km up the road to the Litchfield Tourist Park on the edge of the National Park. We parked the van (fantastic shaded sites here), hooked up power and water, and then headed off to see the various waterfalls and rock formations which Litchfield is famous for.

 

First up we stopped to see the Magnetic Termite Mounds. In Australia we have three types of termites and mounds – Magnetic (tall, wide and flat – 2 dimensional), Cathedral (tall, built like castles with many turrets) and Wood (build their small bounds at the base of live trees and then proceed to eat out the core of the tree). At this place we viewed both the magnetic and the cathedral mounds – both of which were well over 8 foot tall. They are called Magnetic Termite Mounds because they are always built facing north/south, to keep the temperature cooler in the mounds by reducing the surface area exposed to the hot sun.

 

Next up, Wangi Falls. This was a beautiful spot – 2 tall waterfalls plunging into a very large, deep pool. They cascade impressively over very red, and very silvery rocks into the clear pool below. We swam out to the waterfall (quite a swim) and were amazed to find that we could climb up the sheer vertical rockface a little way (up the waterfall) and we found another very deep, warm rockpool in the waterfall! Talk about stunning. The kids used the pool noodles we had brought with us, so they could rest on the big swim out to the falls.

 

Much to Sam’s delight we also saw a large water monitor cross the ground in front of us (about 1.5 metres long), and were glad it wasn’t swimming towards us, as they look a little like a croc with their long tails. There are only freshwater crocs around here, so it was safe to swim. They have permanent traps in place to make sure no big salt water crocs get through to these beautiful swimming holes.

 

Next it was off to the amazing Buley Rockholes. A series of 15 small, deep rockpools, , each with a small waterfall, cascading down into the next rockpool, through the beautiful bush setting. We had a swim in our own personal, deep rockpool, once again, perfect water temperature, before heading down the road again to the next pretty spot. The amount of people here today was amazing – during the middle of the day, there were hundreds of people visiting all the waterfalls, and the carparks were all bursting. We later found out that it is a NT public holiday today. (Cup Day).

 

Up next was the beautiful Florence Falls. A short walk up to the lookout, then a long walk down into the gorge (176 very steep steps), to the plunge pool at the base of the falls. It was an absolute idyllic swimming spot – peaceful, surrounded by tropical vegetation, and crystal clear, deep water at the base of a tall, thundering waterfall. The water temperature was warm, and just superb – lots of large black fish swimming all around us, very non-plussed. Not sure what they were, but they were huge, eating bread out of peoples hands, big enough to eat. If you stood still long enough, they started sucking on your legs, which freaked Sam & Lily out a bit! Sam and I walked along the creek through the rainforest-like surrounds back to the carpark the long way, while Lily and Dad traipsed back up the steep flight of stairs.

 

Then it was a short drive back to the caravan park, where we indulged and ate at the outdoor attached bistro – nothing better than a barra burger after all that swimming! (or as Sam says ‘getting revenge on the fish that have freaked me out all day!’). A lovely day, one of our best – the NT is simply awesome.

Day 16 –Jabiru (Kakadu) to Douglas Daly

This morning we decided to have a change of plans, and instead of going straight up to Darwin, we headed for Douglas Daly (about 50kms off the Stuart Highway, along a sealed road).  But before heading out of Kakadu, one last stop at Mardugal Billabong. This huge billabong looked more like a massive river to us, and the 1km track through the bushland to get us there had us looking out for skinks, and birdlife on the way. At the water’s edge we were warned (as is usual around every watering hole in the NT) of the danger of crocs. Looking out into the water we did spot a big one, so were happy to obey!

 

A couple of hours, and we turned back on to the Stuart Highway for a while, stopping at the small town of Pine Creek for a quick break. A look at the historic steam train, and a wander along the parkway track admiring the beautiful trees. Everywhere we drive we see the most attractive pink barked Salmon Gums, and finally we stopped near one, so I could take a photo. Lily was also amazed at the other huge trees that were covered in a huge foot-long pods, which when shook made a great musical sound. She collected quite a few to crack open and investigate the seeds inside. Everywhere around us I thought I could hear the screeching of parrots, but when I looked up to admire them, I saw the quivery, shaking masses of bats (well flying foxes, actually).

 

 

Next it was off to Douglas Daly, a very remote place about 50km inland in a westerly direction off the Stuart Highway. The only thing that is out here is a caravan park (with a nice pool) situated on the Daly River, famous for its fishing and hot springs. After setting up the van, and making some lunch, we headed off down the 10km dirt road to the locally famous, Daly Hot Springs. Wow, couldn’t believe the amount of people bush camped out here. Heaps of families, like us, had made their way out to the few kilometres of river to sit and soak and relax in the hot water. It was such a weird place. On first glance it looks like a pretty, but ordinary river with various rocky and sandy bottomed areas, but as you walk along it, wading through the water of varying levels, you find warm spots, cool spots, up to 70degrees boiling hot parts. After a while we wised up to the fact that if you stopped and looked closely you could see bubbles slowly coming out of the ground in some places, and this was where it was at its hottest. How delightful to find a hot part to sit in, on the very warm sand, and soak yourself in the soothing waters.

The amazing thing was, there were families throwing a line in the water, just baited with bread, pulling out fish all around us. We could see different sized fish swimming around us, seemingly uncaring of the kids splashing around. A very interesting, and different experience.

 

Back to the caravan park, for a swim in the lovely pool, a chat to some other camping holiday maker families, then back  to the van. Tuna mornay and macaroni is on the menu tonight (loving my thermomix!).

 

 

Day 15 –Jabiru (Kakadu)

This morning it was up early to beat the heat and head the 30 or so kms to the Nourlangie area to do three walks (recommended to us by the park manager). The first to Nawurlandja Lookout was a 600m relatively steep climb up a rocky (very strange pebbled, conglomerate rock) slope which then gave way to views over the nearby escarpments and billabongs. Sam was more than a little perturbed by the sign on the way in, warning of a big, bull buffalo seen in the area recently.

 

 

 Then it was off on a short walk through the woodlands to Anbangbang Billabong (once again observing the signs to keep away from the waters edge because of the saltwater crocs). What a stunning place. Abundant birdlife, including a beautiful blue bodied, copper winged bird, that darted and dived around us, lots of magpie geese, ducks, tall white egrets, and lots of other birds. A large group of kangaroos came down to drink at one end of the billabong. An absolutely magic place.

 

Next up a walk (not easy going in this 33 deg heat) up to the Nourlangie lookout. A really nice, moderately steep climb up to a lookout giving impressive views over Kakadu’s escarpment and Nourlangie Rock. Then the track wound down across several boardwalks past several outstanding aboriginal art sites. Well worth a visit.

Then it was a short drive to Yellow Waters, famous for its (very expensive) cruises on the waterways and billabong. Now they have constructed a metal boardwalk up above the billabong (hopefully out of the reach of the many big crocs that inhabit the area) which gives a fascinating short walk around the area. Once again the wetlands are teeming with wildlife in every direction. The amount and variety of birdlife here in Kakadu is simply astounding.

 

Lastly, before it got too hot, we visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre, which gave an interesting (and air-conditioned – oh yay!), display of the local aboriginal customs and stories. Of course accompanying it was a gift shop which sells local aboriginal craftwork.

 

Too hot by lunchtime to do much else, than head back to the van, and hit the resort pool – always a welcome sight. Kakadu is a magical, very special place, and we are so very privileged to be able to share it with our kids on this amazing trip.