Day 9 – Alice Springs and West Macdonnell Ranges

This morning as we drove out of Alice Springs to the Western Macdonnell Ranges, we couldn’t help noticing the amazing circular effect of mountains all around the city. They provide a picturesque backdrop to the town lighting up each sunrise and sunset with a display of fiery reds, sunburnt orange and deep purples.

Our first stop was Standley Chasm, located 50kms from Alice via sealed road. This the only place we visited today that required an entry fee ($25 per family) to walk the 20mins to the deep red cleft crowded on either side by craggy slopes that rise 80m off the sandy floor. The chasm is best viewed an hour each side of noon, in the sunshine, when the sheer quartzite walls glow from reflected sunlight to create a breathtaking display of stark form and rich color. The famous Aboriginal artist Albert Namatjira spent many hours here captivated by the changing light and color of the surrounds. There is a small kiosk here, but as with most of these little places, very overpriced.

 

The next stop, was aptly named Ellery Creek Bighole, a large waterhole, surrounded by towering cliffs, and stark white gum trees. It was obviously a popular swimming hole with the locals.

 

After that it was on to Serpentine Gorge, after a brain jolting 5km drive down a very rough, stony road.

 

Then it was on to our favourite place of the day – Ormiston Gorge. Located 135km west of Alice, the gorge has a permanent water hole ideal for swimming or picnicking. The color of the rocks had us spellbound. It felt like we were clambering over pink, quartz veined marble, dotted with other colors, and shiny, silver colored rocks that sparkled in the sun on our way further up the gorge. The sheer, red, towering cliffs surrounded us, and we were awestruck by the beauty of the place. This was also a busy, local swimming hole, and despite the cooler weather (20 deg), there were plenty of people in swimming today.

 

Our furtherest stop out today was Glen Helen Resort, which we discovered was more rundown homestead, than resort. It did however provide a place for an icecream, and toilet stop, before we walked down to the gorge itself among the sandy river bed and tall green reeds. It has its own rough camping area, but was quite windy unlike the other places we have visited today.

On our way back into Alice we stopped at Simpsons Gap (the closest to Alice), renowned for its colony of black rock wallabies that hide amongst the huge rocky slopes. Unfortunately we didn’t see any today, but we did appreciate the beauty of the rocky cliffs and pretty waterhole.

 

Back into Alice again, and time to cook up dinner in the van.  Bacon, eggs, onions, and fried bread, with mashed potato, carrots and broccoli for tea tonight. We so appreciate having a gas stove, microwave and thermomix in the van to whip up our dinnertime creations.